Machine for producing edge ornamentation for fabrics



Dec. 21, 1943. F LUTZ 2,337,119

MACHINE FOR PRODUCING EDGE ORNAMENTATION FOB FABRICS Filed Sept. 8, 19:59 a Sheets-Sheet 1 WITNESSES: r 'F d ngvrga-Z i% re arm 11 y BY l I ATTORNEYS.

Dec. 21, 1943. F. ILUTZI MACHINE FOR PRODUCING EDGE ORNAMENTATION FOR FABRICS Fi1ed'Sept. 8, 1939 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 WITNESSES:

FWA

INVENTOR. Frederick Lui ATTORNEYS.

F. LUTZ Dec. 21, 1943.

MACHINE FOR PRODUCING EDGE ORNAMENTATION FOR FABRICS 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Sept. 8, 1959 HG ZPL INVE'NTOR; 1 'rederic]: Luff 5 14 1 TNESSES: Halal .4 T1 'ORNE Y5.

Dec. 21, 1943. u z 2,337,119

MACHINE FOR PRODUCING EDGE ORNAMENTATTON FOR FABRICS.

Fiiedse t. a, 1939 6 Shets-Sheet 4 I WITNESSES: INVEN'IOR; Wm? Frederick Lid/j,

i m I AT'IORNEYS. I

0%21, 1943. L TZ 2,337,119

MACHINE FOR PRODUCING EDGE QRNAMENTATIQN FOR FABRICS I Filed Sept. 8, 1959 a Sheets- Sheet 5 H|IIl|IlIIIII ATTORNEYS.

F. LUTZ Dec. 21, 1943.

MACHINE FOR PRODUCING EDGE ORNAMENTATION FOR FABRICS Filed Sept. 8, 1959 e Sheets-Shet e v v I I IALVENTQR: Freda LL21: but

ATTORNEYS.

Patented Dec. 21, 1943 MACHINE FOR PRODUCING EDGE ORNA- MENTATION FOR FABRICS Frederick Lutz, Stuttgart, Wurttemberg, Germany; vested in the Alien Property Custodian Application September 8, 1939, Serial No. 293,903 In Germany October 26, 1938 Claims.

This invention relates to machine for producing edge ornamentation for fabrics.

The chief aim of my invention is to mak possible the production of ornamentation edging which is characterized by spaced design figures each consisting of one or more loop projections respectively composed of chain stitches whereof the first and the last stitches only pass through the fabric and penetrate it at the same point, and in which the figures are connected by stitch chains, which, except for the first and last stitches, are free of the fabric edge. This objective I attain as hereinafter more fully disclosed, through provision in connection with sewing machines, of improved mechanism for governing the stitch forming and feeding elements, and of improved means for controlling the stitches in such a way during their formation as to determine production of ornamentation characterized as above.

lAnother aim of my invention is to provide in a sewing machine having the above attributes, for the ready interchange of the parts of the mechanism for governing the stitch forming and feeding means, so that the machine may be arranged to predetermine variations in the ornamentation produced.

Other objects and attendant advantages will appear from the following detailed description of the attached drawings, wherein Fig. I is a view partly in front elevation and partly in longitudinal section, of a sewing machine conveniently embodying my invention.

Fig. II is a view of the machine partly in rear elevation and partly in longitudinal section.

Fig. III is a cross sectional view of the machine taken as indicated by the angled arrows III-III in Figs. I and II.

Fig. IV is a fragmentary detail View in plan of the throat plate of the machine drawn to a larger scale.

Fig. V is a horizontal section taken as indicated by the angled arrows VV in Figs. I and III, with portions of the machine removed or broken away and others in section.

Fig. VI is a diagrammatic View showing how the needle of the machine is shifted to different position incident to the formation of the edging.

Figs. VII and VIII are fragmentary sectional views taken as respectively indicated by the arrows VIIVII and VIII-VIII in Figs. III and V.

Fig. IX is a diagrammatic view on an enlarged scale showing ornamental edging produced with two threads; and

Fig. X is a view like Fig. IX of generally similar ornamental edging formed from a single thread.

Except as hereinafter specifically pointed out, the sewing machine herein illustrated is generally like that featured in U. S. Patent No. l,9l9,-

(852, granted to me on July 25, 1933, having a base or bed i with a standard 2 at one end thereof supporting an overhanging arm 3. Fulcrumed to swing about a vertical axis 4 at the outer or distal end of the arm 3 is a yoked lever 5 in which a bar 6 is confined for axial reciprocation, said bar having a needle I removably secured in its lower end. The needle bar 6 is actuated by a lever 8 which swings about a stud 9 on the overhanging arm 3, and which is oscillated, through a strap rod IE3, by an eccentric I i on the drive shaft l2 of the machine. As shown, the shaft I2 is suitably journalled at its front end in a pillar I3 rising from the base I, and at its rear end in the standard 2, said pillar also serving, in conjunction with a post M, to sustain the work support [5 of the machine into which the throat plate It is set. The needle bar carrying yoke lever 55 is oscillated about its vertical fulcrum axis 4 through the medium of a horizontal link ll from a vertical arm l8 affixed to a transverse rock shaft H] which is journalled in bearings 23 and ill afforded by the base 1 adjacent the standard 2. Intermediate its ends the arm it carries a roller 22 which engages the circumferential groove 23 of a vertically arranged cam disk 25. In accordance with my present invention, the groove 23 of the cam 25 is formed with a series of laterally spaced steps or dwells 23a, 23b, 23c, 23d, 23c, and 23 see Fig. VI, whereof the purpose will be later on explained. As shown in Figs. I, II and VII, the cam disk 25 is removably secured by screws 26 to a gear wheel 2'! which is free to revolve about a horizontal shaft 28 secured against rotation in the standard 2 at an elevation above the shaft 12, and which meshes with a driving pinion 29 on the last mentioned shaft. Slidably guided in bearing lugs 30 and 3! at the free end of the frame arm 3 is a presser bar 32 with a shank member 33 (Fig. III) at its lower end whereto is pivoted at 35, a presser foot 36. The feeding mechanism of the machine includes a feed dog 31 whereof the toothed portion operates through a slot 38 in the throat plate l6 to coact with the presser foot 36 in advancing the fabric F which is to be ornamented. The feed dog 3'! is secured, with capacity for vertical ad- J'ustment, to a transversely extending horizontal feed bar 39 whereof the rear end is pivotally connected to a pin 40 carried between the upper ends of vertical rocker arms 4| which are fre on a rock shaft 62 having journal support at opposite ends in the lugs 43 and M on the base I, see Figs. II, III and V. The feed bar 39 receives its hori- Zontal feed movements from an adjustable crank member 45 (Fig. I) at the outer end of the shaft I2, with which crank member on of the rocker arms 4! is connected by means of a horizontal link 46 (Figs. I, II, and III) The mechanism for imparting the up and down or lift movements to the feed dog 31 is similar to that featured in U. S. Patent Number 2,103,478, granted to me on December 28, 1937. As shown, it includes a horizontally-arranged rotary disk 38 which is mounted for free rotation about a stud 49 (Fig. VIII) rising from the base I. The circumferential groove of the cam 48 is engaged by a roller 5| on the short arm 52 of a horizontal yoke 53 secured to the shaft 42, see Figs. II, III and V. The other or longer arm 54 of the yoke 53 is connected by a short adjustable vertical link 55 to the feed bar 39 near the swinging end of the latter, see Figs. III and V. In accordance with my present invention, the groove 59 of the cam 48 is formed at diametrically opposite points with vertical offsets 50a and 50bv for a purpose also later on set forth. As shown in Figs. V and VIII, the cam 48 is composed of two sections 48a and 4811 which are secured by means of screws 56 and 51 to a center or core plate 58 rotatively free on the stud 49. In turn, secured in axial relation to the cam 48 by screws 59, is a worm wheel 60. A washer BI secured by a screw 62 engaging axially into the top of the stud 49, serves as a means to hold the cam 48 and the worm wheel 60 down in place on said stud. It is to be particularly noted from Fig. V that the cam 48 is split along tangential lines 63, 64 in order that its sections 48a and 481) may be readily removed edgewise from the machine for convenience of interchanging them for others when desired or required. The worm wheel 66 is driven in the direction shown by the arrow in Fig. V by an intermeshing worm 65 affixed to the shaft Arranged to cooperate with the needle I beneath the work support I5 is a four motion thread carrying looper 66 which is supported in a holder 67. The looper 66 receives its loop taking and shedding movements by swinging of the holder 61 about a lateral stud projection 68 on a cradle rocker $59, which, at one end is secured to a trunnion It having journal support in the web I3, and which at the other end is secured to a trunnion shaft II extending through the post Ill and a bearing lug I2 somewhat to the right of said post in Figs. I and V. Afilxed to the trunnion shaft II in the interval between the post I I and the bearing lug I2 is an arm I3 whereof the swinging end is forked to engage over a rotary eccentric cam I5 on the shaft I2, see Figs. I and V. The connections just described constitute the means whereby needle avoiding movements are imparted to the looper 6B. As shown in Fig. I, the needle actuating lever 8 has a downward extremity It with which the looper holder 6! is coupled by a pair of serially arranged links 1! and I8 whereby loop taking and shedding movements are induced in the element 66. To the end of the rock shaft I9 opposite to that occupied by the vertical arm I8, is secured a horizontal arm I9 (Fig. I), which, through a short vertical link 80., is coupled with a common pivot BI connecting the links 1! and I8, whereby the operative position of the looper I55 is changed to correspond with changes in the position of the needle I under the influence of the rotary cam 25.

In accordance with my present invention, the throat plate I6 is provided within its needle hole 82, with three laterally-spaced stitch fingers 83, 84, and which extend in the direction of feeding (indicated by the arrows in Fig. IV in the intervals between the four dwell positions Ia, lb, I0 and Id determined for the needle by the rotary cam 25. The fingers 8385 are all curved toward the edge of the fabric F which is held to a straight line path so as to travel in the illustrated instance in a line between the position Ia for the needle and the finger 83, by means of a guide member 38 adjustably secured to the top of the work support I5. The finger 83 nearest the fabric edge is curved but slightly, while the other two fingers 84 and 85 are more pronouncedly curved so that their ends are brought very close to the fabric edge. The fingers 84 and 85 are moreover reversely curved sharply at their ends for a reason which will presently be explained.

The machine is provided as usual with a suitable means for controlling the needle thread which is designated in Figs. I and III by the letter T. The needle thread T passes from a suitable source of supply (not illustrated) through a fixed guide eye 8?, then between a pair of tensioning disks 88 on the frame arm 3, then through an eye 89 on the needle arm 8, then through another fixed eye 98 on the frame arm, then through another eye III on the needle arm, then under a fixed guide member 92, then through an eye 93 at the top of the needle bar E5, and finally through a second tensioning device 9 on the needle bar from whence it passes directly to the eye of the needle I. As a consequence of this arrangement, the needle thread T is taken up each time that the needle bar 6 rises to pull up the previously formed stitch. The looper thread designated T is drawn from a separate source of supply (notillustrated) and passes first through a fixed eye 95 on the frame arm 3, then through a disk tension 96, then through a fixed eye 91 on the base I (Figs. II and V), then through a spring pinch tension 98, then through a rotary take up 99 of a well-known construction operated from the shaft I2, and finally to the eye of the looper 66.

For convenience of lifting the presser foot 36 in opposition to a leaf spring I98 (Fig. II) which acts on the presser bar 32, the machine is provided with a lever IIII which is fulcrumed intermediate its ends on a pivot stud I52 projecting laterally from the frame arm 3. The end of the short arm IIHa of the lever IIJI is normally held down in contact with a fixed stop I03 on the frame arm 3 by a helical tension spring I84 and underreaches a lateral stud projection I535 on the presser bar 32. The lever IGI is connected through a link rod connection I66, with an operating foot treadle, not illustrated. By means of the latch shown at I01 in Figs. I-III, the presser foot 38 may be locked in raised position when necessary or desired.

The operation of the machine is as follows: Assuming the fabric F to be stationary and the needle I in the position la in Fig. IV which is determined by the step 23a of the cam 25, see Fig. VI. In making its first reciprocation, the neeedle I passes through the fabric F immediately inward of the edge E (which as hereinbefore described, is directed by the guide), and as a consequence of its coaction with the looper 66, a stitch I I0 (Fig. IX) is formed. As the cam 25 rotates in the direction of the arrow in Fig. VI, the needle is moved laterally to the position lb by the step 231) of said cam, and in making its succeeding reciprocation passes down through the interval between the fingers B3, 84 beyond the edge of the fabric, with the result that the stitch H is completed over the finger 83 and a new stitch iii (Fig. IX) is formed. As the cam 25 rotates further, the needle is brought to the position lc by the step 230 and reciprocated in the interval between the fingers B4, 85 with completion of the stitch HI over the finger S and the formation of another new stitch H2. Upon further movement of the cam 25, the needle is brought to the position id by the step 23d and is reciprocated beyond the finger 85 with attendant completion of the stitch H2 over said finger and the formation of another new stitch l l3. During the completion of the instant rotation of the cam 25, the direction of lateral needle shifting is reversed as the roller 22 successively passes through the step 232 (which corresponds to step 230) and the step 23} (which corresponds to step 23b) and finally re--enters the step 23a, with attendant positioning of the needle successively in the positions is, lb and la and formation of the stitches H3, fill and till over the fingers 85, 8t and 83. In this excursion of needle shifting, a flat loop L of six chain stitches is formed, whereof the first and last stitches lit and H5 pass through the fabric at the same point. Through two more needle excursions in precisely the same manner, the fabric E still stationary, additional loops L and L are formed with the first and last stitches of each passing through the fabric at the same point as the first and last stitches of the first loop L clearly shown in Fig. IX. Due to the complemental curving of the stitch fingers 83-85 and taking up on the needle and the looper threads T, T incident to stitch formation, the c1 in stitch loops L, L and L are caused to shift toward the edge of the fabric as shown in Fig. Vi, but ar detained by the reversely curved ends of the fingers E35. As a consequence of this control, it will be seen that the individuality of the loops LL is preordained. During the next rotation of the cam 25 after completion of the three loops L-L a chain 0 of six stitches Ell, lit, lit, Hi and 922 is produced. However, just before the formation of the last stitch ill? of this chain C, the fabric F is shifted by momentary lifting of the feed dog 3? through actuation of the yoke member 53 by one of the rises of the rotary cam 68, so that the said last stitch 222 is caused to penetrate the fabric at a point further along the edge of the latter as clearly shown in Fig. IX, with the intermediate loops of the chain entirely free of the fabric edge. the shift of the fabric F as just explained, the loops L-L are pulled off and away from the stitch fingers til-E5, the edge ornamentation resulting from petitions of the above cycle. Upon release, the loops L-L constituting the unit figure M of the design take radial positions relative to the point at which the fabric is penetrated by the needle and thus create a sunburst effect as shown in Fi X, wherein the needle thread '1 so that it may be readily dis- The throw breaking of each chain C at the middle with its two segments extending radial to the centers of the two adjacent figures M which it connects.

By changing the number of steps in the rotary cam 25, the number of stitch fingers, the number of rises in the cam 48, and/or the ratio of the gears 21, 29 and 69, 65, it will be evident that considerable variation may be had in the design of the ornamentation.

As a further alternative, by substituting a spreader for the thread carrying looper 66, it is possible to produce designs such as shown in Fig. X with the needle thread T alone. How the latter change may be effected will be readily understood by those familiar with the operation and use of sewing machines without the need of separate illustration or further explanation.

Having thus described my invention, I hereby claim:

1. A machine for ornamenting fabrics, comprising a reciprocating needle; means determining recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding; means for reciprocating the needle in each of several different dwell positions during each of its excursions while the fabric is stationary; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; and feed means operative to advance the fabric a definite amount during another excursion of the needle at the completion of each cycle.

2. A machine for ornamenting fabrics, comprising a reciprocating needle; means determining recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding; means for reciprocating the needle in each of several differ-ent dwell positions during each of its excursions while the fabric is stationary; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the needle penetrates the fabric at the beginning of each excursion and again at the same point at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; and feed means operative to advance the fabric a definite amount at the completion of each cycle.

3. A machine for ornamenting fabrics, comprising a reciprocating needle; means determining recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding; means for reciprocating the needle in each of several different dwell positions during each of its excursions; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the needle penetrates the fabric only at the beginning and at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; and feed means operative upon completion of each cycle with the fabric stationary, to advance the fabric a definite amount.

4. A machine for ornamenting fabrics, com prising a reciprocating needle; means determining recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding while the fabric is stationary; means for reciprocating the needle in each of several different dwell positions during each of its excursions; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the needle penetrates the fabric only at the beginning and at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; and feed means operative during another excursion of the needle upon completion of each cycle to advance the fabric a definite amount.

5. A machine for ornamenting fabrics comprising a reciprocating needle; means determ ning recurrent stitching cycles eachinvolvingseveral successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding with causation of sever dwells in difierent positions during each of its ecursions including a movable support for the needle, a rotary cam having steps corresponding to the different dwell positions of the needle, and a follower connected to the needle support and operated by the cam; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the needle penetrates the fabric only at the beginning and at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain s itches; and feed means operative to advance the fabric a definite amount at the completion of each cycle.

6. A machine for ornament-mg fabrics comprising a reciprocating needle; means determining recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feed ing with causation of several dwells in different positions during each excursion while the fabric is stationary including a movable support the needle, a rotary cam having steps corresponding to the different dwell positions of the needle, and a follower connected to the needle support and operated by the cam; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the penetrates the fabric while the latter is stationary only at the beginning and at the end of a needle excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; and feed means operative during another excursion of the needle at the completion of each cycle, to advance the fabric a definite amount '7. A machine for ornamenting fabrics compri ing a reciprocating needle; means determining recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the diection of feeding with causation of several dwells in different positions during each excursion of the needle including a movable support for the needle, a rotary cam having steps corresponding to the clifferent dwell positions of the needle, and a follower connected to the needle support and op" erated by the cam; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the need e penetrates the fabric only at the beginning and at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; and feed means operative, at the completion of each cycle, to advance the fabric a definite amount.

8. A machine for crnamenting fabrics comprising a reciprocating needle; means determining recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding while the fabric is stationary, with causation of several dwells in different positions during each excursion including a movable support for the needle, a rotary cam havin steps corresponding to the different dwell positions of the needle, and a follower connected to the needle support and operated by the cam; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the needle penetrates the fabric only at the beginning and the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; and feed means cperative during another excursion of the needle upon completion of each cycle to advance the fabric a definite amount.

9-.- A machine for ornamenting fabrics comprisneedle ing a reciprocating needle; means determining recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding with causation of several dwells in different positions during each excursion including a movable support for the needle, a rotary cam having steps corresponding to the different dwell positions and a follower connected to the needle support and operated by the cam; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the needle penetrates the fabric only at th beginning and at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; feed means for periodically advancing the fabric a definite amount including a feed dog, means for imparting feed movements to the dog, a rotary cam with a step or rise, a follower actuated by the cam and connected to the feed dog to impart lift movements thereto, and means whereby the feed lift control cam is rotated in definite timed relation to the needle control cam to determine lifting of the dog for feeding of the fabric only upon the completion of each cycle.

10. A machine for ornamenting fabrics comprising a reciprocating needle; means determim ing recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of th needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding with causation of several dwells in different positions during each excursion including a movable guide support for the needle, a rotary cam having steps corresponding to the different dwell positions of the needle, and a follower connected to the needle support and operated by the cam; a gear wheel to which the cam is removably secured for convenience of interchange with others having different numbers of steps; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that th needle penetrates the fabric only at the beginning and at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; feed means operative to advance the fabric a definite amount only at the completion of each cycle iiieluding a feed dog, means for imparting feed movements to the dog, a rotary cam with a rise, a follower actuated by the cam and connected to the feed dog for imparting lift movements to the latter; a gear wheel to which the feed lift control cam is removably secured for convenience of interchange with others having different numbers of rises; and a shaft with driving gear elements thereon respectively in mesh with the aforesaid gear wheels whereby the two rotary cams are driven at relative speeds to bring about the aforesaid action of the needle and the feed dog.

11. A machine for ornamenting fabrics, comprising a reciprocating needle; means determining successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding; means for reciprocating the needle in each of several different dwell positions during each of its excursions; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the needle penetrates the fabric at the beginning of each excursion and again at the same point at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; intermittent feed means for periodically advancing the fabric a definite amount; a throat plate having a plurality of stitch fingers extending in the direction of feeding in the intervals between the several dwell positions of the needle, whereon the stitches formed during each excursion are held until the fabric is shifted by the feed. 7

12. A machine for ornamenting fabrics, comprising a reciprocating needle; means determining successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding; means for reciprocating the needle in each of several different dwell positions during each of its excursions; guide means for directing the fabric edge so that the needle penetrates the fabric only at the beginning and at the end of each excursion; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; intermittent feed means for periodically advancing the fabric a definite amount; tensioning and take-up means for the needle thread; and a plurality of fingers extending in the direction of feeding in the intervals between the several dwell positions of the needle whereon the stitches are formed during th excursions, said fingers being complementarily curved toward the fabric edge, whereby, under the action of the thread take-up the formed stitches are caused to shift forwardly and certain of said fingers having their ends reversely curved whereby the formed stitches are retained until the fabric is shifted.

13. A machine for ornamenting fabrics, com prising a needle; means for effecting recurrent stitching cycles each involving at least two successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches during each of its excursions; fabric feeding means; and means for controlling the feeding means to hold it inactiv during at least one excursion of the needle and to actuate it for feeding of the fabric during another needle excursion.

14. A machine for ornamenting fabrics, comprising a reciprocating needle; means for effect ing recurrent stitching cycles each involving several successive excursions of the needle bodily back and forth laterally of the direction of feeding; means for reciprocating the needle in each of several dwell positions during each of its excursions; means cooperating with the needle to form chain stitches; means for feeding the fabric; and a rotary cam device with interposed means for actuating the feeding means to advance the fabric a definite extent during the last excursion of the needle in each cycle, and for maintaining said feed means inactive during the other excursions of the needle in such cycle of stitch formation.

15. A machine according to claim 14 for ornamenting fabrics wherein the rotary cam device is in the form of a circumferentially grooved disk having a lateral offset in its groove to effect feed actuation.

FREDERICK LUTZ. 

